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A Country Woven in Color: The Details of Tunisia

Writer: Ohara Lesher
Ohara Lesher
Aug 24
4 min read

Updated: Aug 28

I remember Tunisia in fragments of sensory: cobalt-blue doors, rough white plaster, sun-faded murals, woven rugs, golden stone, and palms rising from the sand. Before visiting, I imagined Roman ruins, Mediterranean coastlines, and an endless desert. I found all three, but the landmarks aren’t what I remember most clearly.

What stayed with me were the colors, textures, and details woven into everyday life.

Blue Doors and Medina Mosaics

Tunis overwhelmed me through color, noise, and contrast.

Yellow taxis circled beneath bright red Tunisian flags. Inside the medina, narrow passageways disappeared beneath hanging rugs in rust, cobalt, mustard, and cream. Baskets crowded the walls, carts were stacked with golden bread, and vendors worked beneath vines of bougainvillea.


The air shifted between spices, dust, hot oil, and sweet mint tea. Cats slept wherever they pleased, including across the seats of old scooters.

Behind rugged walls, entire rooms were wrapped in patterned tile. Crystal chandeliers hung above vibrant rugs, while blue doors opened to colorful interiors. In Tunisia, color and pattern seemed to be everywhere

However, just outside Tunis, Sidi Bou Said felt like more of an exhale.

Bougainvillea grew over rooftops, and staircases were covered in mosaics of blue, green, and mustard. Cacti sat in stoops in mismatched pots, and cats stretched across the warm stone.


In the distance, you could see the turquoise water. It reminded me of the Greek islands, but Sidi Bou Said felt more textured: carved balconies, worn plaster, tangled vines, and flowers growing wherever they could.

Nothing matched perfectly, yet everything belonged.



Woven Color in the Desert

Traveling inland toward Tozeur, Tunisia’s Mediterranean blues faded into terracotta, rust, and sand.

Dust gathered along the streets, while murals peeled beneath the beating sun. Pale bricks were arranged into raised geometric patterns, turning entire buildings into textured works of art.

However, behind those earthen walls, Tozeur was filled with color.

Colorful rugs covered the courtyards, with pottery hanging from wooden beams and woven lamps overhead.

Inside an Amazigh café, striped wool covered the chairs and floral cloths covered the tables. Even our drinks arrived in colorful layers of watermelon red and green.

Tozeur felt tactile in a way the coast had not: coarse and dusty.


One day, we went outside of the city, and hired a local guide led us into the surrounding landscape called Chebika. From above, a splash of palms cut through the canyon. Below, yellow flowers grew beside the stone and a small waterfall spilled into a shaded pool.

After hours of glare, dust, and heat, the green felt almost refreshing.

Golden Stone and Ancient Shadows

El Jem was surprisingly quiet.

The amphitheater rose above neighborhood restaurants, bicycles, parked scooters, and strings of red Tunisian flags. A man grilled food on the sidewalk while a camel rested nearby beneath a bright striped blanket.


Then there was the stone—nearly two thousand years old, El Jem has stood here since the Roman Empire.

I climbed worn staircases and wandered through repeating arches with almost no one else around. Grit shifted beneath my shoes, the limestone felt cool inside the shaded corridors, and every opening framed golden stone against the pale sky.

Below the arena, the air was cool as I entered the underground chambers where gladiators and animals once waited. Then I stood in the open center where people had fought for their lives centuries earlier.

I had visited the Colosseum in Rome, but El Jem felt grander because I was free to experience it slowly and almost alone.

For something so magnificent, it remains remarkably overlooked—Tunisia’s own hidden Jem.


White Cities Beside Blue Water

By the time I reached Mahdia and Sousse, the desert colors had faded back into white walls, green tilework, and deep Mediterranean blue.


The coast felt completely different. Palm trees lined hotels, yachts filled the marina, and at night, beach clubs lit up in pink, green, and blue.


There was still plenty of old Tunisia mixed in with it—weathered stone, narrow medina streets, woven textiles, and buildings with paint peeling from years beside the sea.

Seafood was everywhere. Whole fish, prawns, and squid were laid out over ice, and white buildings stretched along the shoreline.


Mahdia and Sousse were a different side of Tunisia—more coastal, more polished in places, but still a little worn around the edges.




The Details That Remain

When I think about Tunisia now, I remember it in fragments.

Mint floating in tea. Blue doors framed by mosaics. Coarse rugs spread beneath the desert sun. Clay vessels hanging from wooden rafters. Cool limestone corridors. Seafood shining over ice. Salt carried on the Mediterranean air.

Tunisia kept changing as I moved through it. The white and blue of the coast gave way to desert towns, palm-filled oases, Roman ruins, crowded medinas, and then back to the Mediterranean again.


What I remember most, though, are the details—the doors, tiles, rugs, pottery, old stone, and all the color in between.

You simply had to slow down long enough to notice it.

Threads & Terrain was created for travelers who want to look closer, venture beyond the obvious, and discover the details that make a place unforgettable.

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